The Great European Regional Brews
I think we are all thankful that the US emerged from the lite beer dark ages and embraced a full-bodied flavor in beer. The microbrew scene in the US is a welcome addition for sure. I’m a bit torn with the current obsession with IPAs. It almost feels like an overcompensation from drinking watered down beer for 30 years. I prefer beers with good flavor, but IPAs are essentially unfinished. That is what provides that strong hoppy flavor. I tend to look for a bit easier drinking beer, and I think an often-underappreciated beer category is the European regional brews.
I’ve had the pleasure to travel across much of Europe, and often a country, or sometimes a city would have its own signature brew. I’m not talking about Heineken or Guinness. You can find those, of course, but you find those the same way you find Budweiser or Miller in Europe. Outside of Ireland and the UK, Guinness can be found in certain bars catering to ex-pats, international travelers, or with an Irish pub theme. You will often find Budweiser or Miller at these same places, along with other big European brands like Carlsberg.
The kind of regional brew I’m thinking about is Zwiec, the most popular local brew in Poland. I was introduced to this beer
when I took a trip to Kraków a few years back. I’m sure there were other choices at my hotel, but when I ventured out to local bars and restaurants, Zwiec was everywhere. The signature of these regional brews is they are typically lagers or pilsners. They have good flavor, but they don’t try to overwhelm your taste buds like far too many of the current microbrews (I’m talking about you, IPA).
What’s great about these brews is they also help connect you to the local culture. If you travel to the southern/warmer parts of Europe, you will find the brews lighter, intended to provide relief from the heat and sun. In Italy, for example, you will find Peroni, a pale lager that is perfect for sipping while people watching in the shade. In Denmark, home to Carlsberg, the local favorite is Tuborg (pronounced too-bow). The mainstay pilsner, Tuborg Green is everywhere, as is the darker Tuborg Classic. These brews are a bit heartier than their southern contemporaries. Intended to provide a bit more comfort during those longer, darker winters.
In Poland, I nearly fell off my barstool the first time I saw the common practice of ordering a beer and a shot of vodka. The vodka is then added to the mug of beer. Providing a bit more of an alcohol content to the brew. That definitely reminded me I was in vodka country.
The central and northern parts of Europe have a richer beer scene than the south where wine is more prevalent. In Germany and Belgium, the regional favorites are often different city by city. In Munich, home to the famous Octoberfest, you will find Augustiner and Pauliner, in addition to the more familiar Hofbräu, Löwenbräu and Spaten. In Berlin, you will find the Berliner brew the local favorite. Belgium takes the styles and variety to another level. Stella Artois is the most famous export, which is now produced by InBev. Leffe, Hoegaarden, Duvel and Kwak are just a few of the local favorites that can be found on specialty lists here in the US. The Dutch, who for centuries dominated world trade have some of the biggest names in beers with Heineken and Amstel, but when you visit you would just as likely find Grolsch, Bavaria, or La Trappe on tap.
I do enjoy the US microbrew scene, and I certainly hope for a quick recovery from the economic impact from the pandemic. The competitive, experimental scene has created some great outcomes. I also enjoy the steady approach that European brewers have taken for centuries. Maybe some of it is the close tie to memory we have with taste and smell. I can open a bottle of Estrella here in Chicago and have the warmth of memories come to me with the first sip. Reminding me of grabbing a beer and tapas after a day at the beach in Spain. I think more so that I like the classic pilsner or lager designed for everyday drinking, catering for all seasons and occasions. I often wish I had the knowledge of these brews while I was choosing between this watered-down lite beer or that even more watered-down lite beer, but I’m happy that we have a great variety of local and international choices now. They are a better foundation for our memories.
